CLAFLIN, THAYER AND CO.

SASS & BIDE SS12

2012-01-19T11:02:00.001-08:00

I love this whole collection for its crazy colors and mixed materials but most of all for the amazing neon accessories - especially that spike bag!
Sass & Bide has a very cool blog chronicling their inspiration, you can check it out HERE.

HOUSE OF KONSTANTIN MELNIKOV

2012-01-14T08:29:00.000-08:00

House in Moscow with 60 hexagonal windows designed by Konstantin Melnikov in the 1920's. See more HERE.

BOLSHOI THEATER

2012-01-13T13:09:00.000-08:00

Behind the scenes images from the Bolshoi Theater workshop from HERE.

DREAM HAIR

2012-01-11T12:48:00.001-08:00

Weldon Burnham photo, Playgirl, December 1972 HERE

LEATHER GLOVES

2012-01-10T10:41:00.000-08:00

One more project I really don't have time for right now but have always wanted to tackle - making a pair of leather gloves. I love how the pattern looks cut out. The gloves are carefully sewn from so many little pieces you probably never considered that have funny old names like "one pair of tranks, one pair of thumbs, four whole fourchettes, four half fourchettes, two gussets, and six quirks" (from wiki). Image below from Leathercraft Vol.2 from Mike Redwood's site. Below photos are from WARP AND WOOF - I love the construction pictures on this blog and you will understand even more if you read Japanese!If you really want to nerd out, you can read the complete history of gloves and glovemaking on Mike Redwood's site HERE.

MONARCH MIGRATION

2012-01-06T07:40:00.000-08:00

So glad the Chic Muse took a break from fashion to visit the butterfly sanctuary at Chincua Mountain in Mexico and share these pics. I've seen monarchs at Natural Bridges in Santa Cruz and it's pretty hard to convey through photos what an incredible sight it is.
All photos from CHICMUSE.

DIPS OF DEATH GIRL

2012-01-05T16:06:00.000-08:00

Pic from Rivet Head.

UNIONMADE LOVE

2012-01-05T12:03:00.000-08:00

Oooohhhh boy. Have not had jacket love like this in a long time. UNIONMADE collaborated with Golden Bear Sportswear, a family-owned San Francisco company since 1922, originally know for their longshorman jackets, to create the styles below. They are pretty much perfect in my opinion - simple, sexless, and straightforward. Even better, they are quite affordable. Just hire me already...geez! You can shop the whole collection HERE.

LATER 2011

2011-12-30T23:55:00.000-08:00

QUILTED iPAD CASES

2011-12-27T13:02:00.000-08:00

I don't have one of these fancy things yet but everyone else seems to, so I thought it might be a good thing to make a carrier for. I definitely wanted to add real foam into this bag to keep the iPad safe. Following my camera bag, I made a zig-zag quilted template.I was inspired by this service elevator quilt to do the zig-zag pattern.This is 1/4" foam for sufficient padded interlining. It's thicker than the original wool batting I used for the first camera bag, shown in the next photo below.I used just a little bit of glue to anchor the foam to the leather so it doesn't shift when sewing. Sewing the zipper down at the top.Finished bag also works great as a clutch.iPad case and camera bags.
I'm planning to reopen the online shop in the next month to offer a select group of items like this...please check back.

HARRIS TWEED PART 2 - FABRIC

2011-12-20T13:00:00.000-08:00

Here is our Harris Tweed trip!
To get to Isle of Lewis, we boarded a big car ferry at Uig on the Isle of Skye.

Skye is lush and green with little cottages dotting the hillside - very picturesque.

Fishing nets on the docks.

The cars are packed into the ferry like sardines, and the people board the upper decks of the ship.

Travel companions KC & Jojo. Of course there is a bar on board, so whisky is mandatory to keep warm. Look at their hair - see how windy it is? And cold.

Several hours later, we arrive on the Isle of Lewis and Harris, which is home to the Callanish Standing Stones - one of the oldest and largest megalithic structures in Europe erected somewhere around 2000BC.We went to Stornoway, in search of some Harris Tweed, and there we found Ronnie Mackenzie's shop, which is pretty much the goldmine. Here's an old loom in the garden out front.The Harris Tweed orb.The shop is dark, dusty, and crammed full of every kind of tweed you can imagine.Dyed wool yarns used to make tweed.Bobbins with yarn - these are attached to the loom when the fabric is woven.Maps of the Outer Hebrides where Harris Tweed is made.

Here is Ronnie showing us all the different breeds of sheep used to make Harris Tweed.

Guide showing where the best wool comes from on a sheep skin.

Totally insane catalog from the 1930's containing swatches of various tweeds.

Every tweed ever produced is archived in books like this.

Ronnie is pretty much the coolest guy ever. He's got so much knowledge about tweed and is an all around character and awesome dude.

Newer books with samples of tweeds created for various designers.Harris Tweed hats, you've probably seen many an old man walking down the street in one of these.Rolls and rolls and rolls of fabric everywhere.More swatches of custom fabrics for customers.

Harris Tweed has produced many of Ralph Lauren's wools over the years.

Harris Tweed is protected by an act of Parliament - only tweed that has been woven in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland can be stamped with the Harris Tweed Orb of authentication once it's been inspected.

I picked up this amazing book, which details the production of Harris Tweed and contains stunning photos of island life and the manufacturing process.Ronnie gave me official Harris labels to sew into the garments I make, since they are officially Harris Tweed, of course.After a totally overwhelming several hours in the shop with Ronnie learning about all kinds of cool stuff, this is what I actually walked away with:Several meters (enough to make a jacket or coat) of each tweed. I really wanted to buy everything in the store, but let's be realistic. I will do a Part 3 eventually showing what I made with some of the tweed. This will not come for a long time, as I have to plan thoroughly before I cut into any of this precious fabric!Below are some collaborations I like between various fashion brands with Harris Tweed. Left to Right: Nigel Cabourn, Scott NYC, Topman.Beauty & Youth United Arrows from A Continuous Lean. Love that all-gray jacket with contrast pockets.Levis x Harris TweedA Bathing Ape x Harris Tweed

What am I going to make? I don't know! But I can't wait!

PATTERN RABBIT

2011-12-20T11:48:00.000-08:00

I finally bought a pattern rabbit - this is basically a giant hole punch that puts a nice big hole in your pattern pieces so you can neatly hang them together. Another tool I've needed forever but just been lazy and cheap about buying. I organized my growing collection of patterns the other day - I like how they look hanging over the table. It somehow makes me feel like a more legit pattenmaker.

COLLECTORS WEEKLY - "NATIVE FASHION" ARTICLE

2011-12-15T15:09:00.000-08:00

This is a really interesting article about the history of native-inspired Pendelton blankets and their place in modern American fashion. I highly recommend checking it out - read the whole article HERE.All photos below from the article.On a side note...how cool are those jackets above?

BOREAS KNITWEAR, ISLE OF LEWIS, SCOTLAND

2011-12-14T13:39:00.000-08:00

I found these amazing hand-knit sweaters by Boreas Knitwear in the back of a fabric store on the Isle of Lewis. I searched the internet for any info about the company only to learn it's closed. Which means I passed up a really incredible dead stock collection of sweaters I'll never be able to find again. I'm just at a point where I'm trying not to accumulate "stuff" no matter how amazing it is. If I was a store owner, I would have snatched these up in a second, but I didn't. Damn it.

I love the bold color composition of these sweaters, and each must weight 10lbs or more. I was boiling as soon as I tried one on, attesting to the fact that they are truly island sweaters made to battle even the harshest wind and chill. I wonder how much longer they will sit stuffed into the back of that store.

MATCHY MATCHY

2011-12-13T15:22:00.001-08:00

I gotta say I really hate the changes Google has been making to blogs and email. I can't figure out how to size things now - how fucking annoying. Anyways, here's a way too matchy jacket and bag made by me.

MANITOBAH MUKLUKS

2011-12-09T07:00:00.000-08:00

Very cool (and short) video of Manitobah Mukluk production by ON&BEYOND.

BLAST FROM THE PAST

2011-12-08T10:23:00.001-08:00

My mom taught me to sew when I was little. She's an accomplished seamstress, as was my grandmother and my great-grandmother before that. I remember one of my first sewing projects when I was about 8? A pajama set of flannel shorts and a shirt. I was so angry at it - it just wasn't working out or much fun to sew. I finished it but wasn't very proud of the end result. Even with the disappointment of some of those early projects, something about sewing inspired me and pushed me to keep at it. I liked the idea of making something useful, and seeing just a piece of fabric evolve into a wearable garment by the work of my own hands. Even now, that's what motivates me to design and sew. I've always been an arty, creative type but never got total satisfaction out of drawing, painting, or making other stuff that just sits around and collects dust. I wanted more - I want to make things I can use over and over, like a jacket to keep me warm or a bag to hold my belongings. I admire carpenters, welders, cooks, and gardeners - people who use their skills to make useful things that reflect their creativity. I never remember a point where I decided I wanted to be a designer or seamstress, it just sort of picked me.
Sewing is challenging and can be incredibly frustrating, especially if you're largely self taught. I've been to some design school, from which I've learned a lot, but making mistakes and studying other garments had taught me more. As with most skilled crafts, there is always room for improvement. I still get discouraged and have much to learn, but looking back over my years of sewing, I realize I've come a long way from those flannel pajamas.
Below are some things pulled from the depths of my closet that I made somewhere between 2002-2004 (because sometimes it's fun to look back and see then & now).

STONER EYEBALL

2011-12-07T15:56:00.001-08:00

Nails by Jolyne.

TAILORING THE EASY WAY

2011-12-07T12:32:00.000-08:00

Back to work on hand-stitched buttonholes and other tailoring tricks I'm trying to teach myself. Sewing is an endless challenge that will never be mastered - there is always something new to be learned.

THE BIRD

2011-12-05T09:56:00.000-08:00

Looked down at the ground getting into the car yesterday and saw this in the gutter. Happy Monday!

HARRIS TWEED PART 1 - ANIMALS AND LANDSCAPE

2011-12-02T09:59:00.000-08:00

Scotland was really an epic trip for fabric research and buying. I'm going to split my photos into several parts - this one, another one specifically about the fabric itself, and then further down the road another about some of the things I've made with the tweeds I brought back.

Harris Tweed is really special in terms of production and quality. All of the wool used in the manufacturing of Harris Tweed must come from Scotland (primarily the Western Isles). Once the the sheep are shorn, the raw wool is brought to the Isle of Lewis and Harris, where it is spun into wool yarns. The finished yarns are distributed to individual weavers who bring them to their homes and weave them into the beautiful fabrics that make up Harris Tweed. This is a true example of cottage industry - there are only a hundred or so weavers, all of whom work in their homes on old-fashioned petal-powered weaving machines the same way they did 100 years ago. Once the fabric is finished, the weaver brings the yardage to be inspected by the Harris Tweed Authority, who will give the tweed the official stamp of approval once it's been inspected. Only fabrics woven in the Outer Hebrides isles of Scotland can be categorized as Harris Tweed. You can read more about Harris Tweed HERE if you're interested, or watch the BBC miniseries TWEED which I linked to in a previous post.

I've highlighted the Isle of Lewis and Harris on the below map in red. After a several hours long car drive north from Glasgow to the Isle of Skye and another few hours on a car ferry, we arrived on the island where we were able to see the landscape, animals, weaving sheds, and the tweed itself. I can't tell you how inspiring it was to watch the tweed making process from start to finish.
These photos are actually from Glen Coe on the mainland, but they give a great sense of the colors of the landscape that make up the tweeds. Tweeds are primarily made of vegetable-dyed yarns in tones of orange, red, green, and purple, which get their colors from the lichen, moss and grasses found throughout Scotland.
Just looking at the hills, can't you imagine them turned into a Ralph Lauren tweed?Here is a castle, just for good measure since they are all over Scotland! Castle Eilean Donan on the way to Isle of Skye.
Moss and grass all over the place. This is where the dye comes from!
Beautiful, happy, healthy animals everywhere.
Highland Cattle
Curly horned rams. Don't mess with them!
And here are the sheep! Their wool makes up the tweed after being shorn, processed, dyed, and woven.Since sheep are roaming everywhere, each one is marked with different colors of paint to distinguish one pack from the next when they get mixed up.Here I am in the pen with some shorn wool.The raw wool is taken to one of several facilities on the island where it's cleaned, dyed, and spun into yarns. In the below photo, you can see the bag of unspun dyed wool on the floor and the finished spun yarns on the machines.
The finished yarns are then delivered to a weaver, who generally has a shed or workspace at their home. Here we are peering into the window of a weaving shed - we were here on a Sunday and everyone was at church. The sabbath is taken very seriously on Lewis - no work on Sundays! That means no weaving.
Here is a loom where tweed is being woven with the yarns. I love to see peoples work spaces - the little boom box, tools on the wall, all the same things I have in my studio except a giant loom.Yardage of finished tweed and empty yarn spools.
And here is Harris Tweed! t was such an amazing experience to visit this place, I already want to go back.Next part I'll show all of the different fabric I looked at. Stay tuned.

SPORRAN

2011-11-30T11:58:00.000-08:00

In traditional Scottish dress, the sporran basically serves as a purse for a kilt-wearing man that doesn't have any pockets to stash his stuff. It's a small bag suspended by a chain or cord around the waist, generally made out of leather, hair, or some kind of fur. They can be fairly simple or complexly decorated, as the styles below with engraved metal frames and metallic tassels.
Kate MacPherson has been a taxidermist and sporran-maker for over 20 years in Scotland and finds her materials mostly as roadkill. She has been criticized in the past by various animal- rights campaigners for misusing animals, but I personally find her manner of turning roadkill into sporrans an interesting way of recycling and animal that is already dead and giving it some new purpose. These bags may not be for everyone, but they certainly are interesting. See more HERE.

NEW CAMERA, NEW BAG

2011-11-29T19:02:00.000-08:00

I finally got that new camera I've been needing for so long! And I needed something safe to tote my precious new investment around in. So I made a nice little bag for it. Fidel always likes to get into the photo shoot, he's such a diva.Canon PowerShot G12. It's a great camera - smallish, takes amazing photos, and has the capacity to do so much more than I'll ever be able to figure out.

I made a quick pattern and then dumped all of the odd shaped leather scraps I accumulate onto the floor. I found two pieces that fit the pattern perfectly, so it was good to go.I wanted some padding in the bag in case I drop it, which I probably will. Foam would have been ideal, but I had wool batting leftover from the lining of THIS jacket, which will work just as well. The batting is like a big fluffy cloud of fabric.I made a zig zag template like the lining from above jacket because I love zig zag pattern.Here's the front and back of the bag with the batting sewn to the leather.

Now the zipper is sewn in and it's almost ready.I had more leftover fabric from THIS OTHER JACKET so I used that for the lining.Sewing the lining down on my Juki with a zipper foot.All done. It accommadates the camera, battery charger, and a couple other little things.Here's the gear that fits inside.Here is my friend Tomoko, who kindly agreed to have a quick pic taken so you can see the size of the bag. Thanks, Tomoko!

BACK TO WORK

2011-11-28T10:19:00.000-08:00

I got a lot done over the long weekend - a new jacket, a new bag, and finally downloading all my photos from Scotland. So keep posted!

A COAT TO GET LOST IN

2011-11-23T07:31:00.000-08:00

Probably the fluffiest coat I've ever seen.Jean Shrimpton by David Bailey, 1964 from HERE.

SUNDOWNspecial

2011-11-22T10:06:00.000-08:00

Lil Sara has a new shop up where you can find some bitchin' bolo flair to spice your neckline up. Check it out HERE.

THANKS TO THE RAIN

2011-11-22T09:45:00.000-08:00

It's been wet here and the fruits of the woods are abundant thanks to all the moisture. I can never get enough chanterelles. They are the most delicious of all mushrooms (surpassed only by morels, in my opinion) and the only thing better than actually eating them is the hunt itself.

FU SOCKS

2011-11-21T10:34:00.000-08:00

Good socks to wear on a Monday.

THE EASIEST SHIRT IN THE WORLD

2011-11-17T11:41:00.001-08:00

This is basically the easiest shirt pattern you could ever make. Because there is no pattern. It's literally a piece of fabric, folded in half, sewn down the sides with an opening cut for the neck. I've made this shirt in different fabric but prefer something lightweight or drapey so it hangs nicely. For this shirt, I used a velvet burn-out stripe with gold lurex thread.
The shoulder line is created by the fold of the fabric and the base is just the selvage edge.I cut the neckline out and finished it with store-bought black cotton bias tape.A selvage waistline meant no extra hemming.
Here is the fabric folded and ready to sew the sides and cut out the neck. Same pattern as the sequin shirt next to it, also seen HERE.
That's it. So easy. Try it.

CRAZY PERSON FASHION IS THE BEST

2011-11-14T11:20:00.000-08:00

These photos are terrible. But this guy was too good not to share. He wears an old Levi's denim jacket completely covered with various rags, ties, fabric scraps, and the like. He asked for a cigarette. We gave him one. He was eating a tomato like an apple. He told us he was Satan, then got mad and walked away into the night. I love nothing more than to to see some eccentric character in their kooky getup.

DAPPER MAN

2011-11-10T12:29:00.001-08:00

I'm not really a hat person but this photo makes me want to go get one. Edward Sheriff Curtis self-portrait 1899, via HERE. Such a cool pic.

SOME THINGS WE ATE IN SCOTLAND

2011-11-10T10:08:00.000-08:00

There were many good things to eat. So many in fact, that I am typing this with my jeans unbuttoned at the waist.

I had many a meat pie with mashed potatoes and peas.Shortbread everywhere. I like butter and sugar. Home of Walkers shortbread.
Cured fish and delicious dairy.
Lamb. So much lamb. I think there are more sheep than people in Scotland.
Haggis! The traditional Scottish dish consisting of various minced sheep organs, oatmeal, onions, and spices stuffed in the casing of a sheep intestine and cooked. Yes, it sounds pretty terrifying but is actually surprisingly good. I'll try anything once.
Mussels. So much amazing seafood in Scotland. I can't believe I didn't get a photo of any one of the many fish n chips I ate. I was too busy eating to bother with a camera.
Roasted veggies all over - carrots, parsnips, turnips.
Curry. So good. This particular one is from Stravaigin, which I highly recommend if you make it to Glasgow.
For drinks, ales and whisky (there is no "e" in scotch whisky). "Uisge Beatha"is the Scottish gaelic term for whisky, meaning literally "water of life." It's true. I particularly like the prescence of a pacifier in below photo, otherwise know in Scotland as a "dummy tit."
Made a visit to Jamie Oliver's Italian restaurant in Glasgow. Roddy's eyes got real big when all that meat and cheese came to the table.
The most delicious of all the meat pie places in St. Andrews. A flaky crust to die for.
Sweets shop. Cakes for days.Detour to London for a moment, where I had the best churro I've ever had in my life at the Camden Market. Made with fresh dough and Brazilian love right in front of your eyes and then filled with the most decadent dulce de leche. Good lord.
More Camden candies.
And then we had one of the best meals imaginable at Yauatcha in Soho. Oh my god. It is so amazing.
Seaweed salad with fresh blue swimmer crab meat and peanut sauce.Roasted duck pumpkin puffs.
Prawn and beancurd cheung fun. Possibly one of the top 3 most delicious things I have ever put in my mouth. Such a crazy and amazing combination of textures and flavors.Steamed pork buns.Pork dumplings.Back in Glasgow, the last supper before I left. Meat pie, carrots, and mashed potatoes. I fucking love food.

"TWEED" ON THE BBC

2011-11-09T12:32:00.001-08:00

This is the first episode in three of the amazing mini documentary on the BBC about the production of Harris Tweed in Scotland. Harris Tweed is one of the oldest and most respected manufactures of Scottish tweed and is produced only in the Outer Hebrides islands by handweavers who have worked the same way since the early 1800's. I became interested in Harris Tweed as a result of my fabric obsession and was lucky enough to visit the Isle of Lewis and Harris on my trip to Scotland. I'll share all the tweed I brought back when I get my photos together - in the meantime, this is really cool for anyone interested in production of wool tweeds the old-fashioned way.

Tweed Episode 1/3 Trouble Looms from Pssst on Vimeo.

A BLANKET FOR RODDY

2011-11-07T10:00:00.000-08:00

It's been a slow return from a long vacation but I'm finally easing back into the reality of work again. Here's a quick post before I tackle the millions of photos I've acquired in the last month.

I made this blanket for Roddy to keep him warm from the crisp Glasgow chill when he's cruising about town in his pram. It's a tightly woven double-sided Pendelton wool piece with black leather binding around the edges and a leather tag with his name and birthday on it.

Personalized tag - I love leather stamps.
August 10th - he's almost 3 months already! Roddy is a Leo just like me. We have a lot in common, such as red hair, a great love of the outdoors, and a dislike for being stuck in the back seat on long car rides.
Sewing the tag down and trimming the edges.
Double sided cozy town. Mum and dad can use this blanket also, perhaps for when they are sharing a dram on the couch watching "Downton Abbey."
Here is the little man with his serious model face on. So stylish in his suspenders.
And he already likes to tell jokes and laugh a lot, just like his mum. Look a this tiny toes!
Thanks Richard, Jojo, and Roddy! Love you guys!

THE MOTHERLAND

2011-10-28T09:38:00.000-07:00

I've been in Scotland and will return soon with lots of photos of sheep and grass and wool and such!

CLAN MEN

2011-10-13T11:06:00.000-07:00

Some cool guys in tartan, all pictures from From The Clans of the Scottish Highlands, R. R. McIan 1845.

Ogilvie
SutherlandBuchananDavidsonFraserCumin
MacLachlan (that's me)MacPherson

THE FAMILY TREE

2011-10-12T11:17:00.000-07:00

From The Clans of the Scottish Highlands, R. R. McIan 1845

1924 BRITISH EXPEDITION TO MT EVEREST

2011-10-11T10:26:00.000-07:00

Goddamn, look how tough these guy are in their Harris Tweed Jackets and scarves. That must have been a rough trip.Photo from John Noel Photographic Collection

VISVIM "ORION" COAT

2011-10-10T14:43:00.000-07:00

I really love these Harris Tweed x Gortex coats by the Japanese label VISVIM. These are perfect for fall - easy styling, cut in great wool fabric, and nicely finished with natural leather trim and buttons. I'll be making something along these lines soon. See more HERE.

MAYA'S PENDELTON JACKET

2011-10-07T10:21:00.000-07:00

Check it - Maya's awesome mix n match Pendelton raglan sleeve jacket. Love how she mixed two totally different patterns and it still just looks so right. See more HERE.Not sure what's going on here but I like it.

UNDERCOVER PUFFERS

2011-10-05T11:15:00.000-07:00

More totally radical jackets from Japanese label UNDERCOVER - always mixing and matching various elements into a cool mishmash of combos. Here we have some sleeping bag puffer vests with leather motorcycle jacket sleeves.

IN THE REDWOODS

2011-10-03T23:06:00.000-07:00

MORE LACE

2011-10-03T01:59:00.000-07:00

More lace and metallic inspiration...Isabel Marant SS12. Photo HERE.

PENDELTON WOOL x LEATHER JACKET

2011-09-27T10:18:00.000-07:00

New jacket - Pendelton Overall wool with black leather sleeves and trim.I picked up this great piece of "Overall" fabric at the Pendelton mill store last time I was in Portland. It's 64" wide with a large 26" bold graphic repeat, 82% pure virgin wool, 18% cotton. I found a remanent that was exactly one repeat and I instantly thought how well it would work cut into the simple Letterman-style pattern of my last jacket. Here's my soon-to-be purchased fabric piece below.
These pics are from the Pendelton website, but I think they give a pretty clear sense of how big the repeat is. It took a bit of puzzle piecing to figure out the best way to cut this so it would line up perfectly.
In the end, there is one clear repeat on the front and back of the jacket. I couldn't believe how perfectly the fabric design fit into my pattern pieces, total luck here.
My biggest challenge for this jacket was making button holes. I don't have a buttonhole machine and I wanted something really nice for this style. So I took on the project of learning to make handmade buttonholes the old-fashion way. Below images are scanned from a 1960 booklet called How to Make Buttonholes which I found on the totally awesome and helpful tailoring blog that I am obsessed with: TUTTOFATTOAMANO.
This kind of buttonhole basically involves cutting a slit in your fabric, overcasting the opening, laying a cord down, and purl-stitching around the entire thing. I made about 15 practice holes before cutting into the actual fabric, but it would take years to really perfect this kind of hand technique. In addition, this fabric was a real bitch to work with as it had the tendency to fray and easily pull apart. The finished holes came out decent and I'm excited to use this technique more and improve with practice. Click to see bigger.With the Fall Equinox having just passed and the weather quickly changing, I'm gearing up for lots of new Fall/Winter styles. I need something to keep warm while I'm working...

VINTAGE LACE DRESS

2011-09-26T12:59:00.000-07:00

I used to work for a very small design brand that used vintage lace in many of their designs. I looked forward to the visits that supplier Jennifer Osner would make to the studio with her suitcases full of vintage lace and trims. She now has a great Etsy store with a huge collection of trims available for easy purchase. I found these photos of 2008 Project Runway contestant Rami Kashou's beautifully constructed dress made from many yards of antique 1910 French lace purchased from Jennifer. I love how the underlaying gold lamé sets off the lace trim and the directional cut of of the lace creates a bold graphic pattern. Check out Jennifer's full site HERE.

CONFETTI WOW

2011-09-23T10:56:00.000-07:00

Behold the Confetti System x United Bamboo amazingness...

GO BIG OR GO HOME

2011-09-20T11:58:00.000-07:00

I would love to wear this frothy Balmain confection if only for a minute. Actually, I probably wouldn't want to wear it any longer than a minute since I can't imagine getting anywhere in it. But look at this thing...Dress from HERE

FACES

2011-09-15T12:56:00.000-07:00

Various pieces of artist Emily Counts super cool and weird ceramic work. See her workspace HERE.

PRINT MIX BUTTON DOWNS

2011-09-13T10:47:00.000-07:00

Mr. Mort photographed some really cool ideas at NY fashion week. Love the unexpected mixing of traditional oxford shirting with woven pattern, patchwork, and batik.

BITE THIS

2011-09-09T10:55:00.000-07:00

Pretty over studs unless you're a real punker but I'll make an exception for this here APPLE! And thanks for the camera suggestions...I've made my decision. Apple pic from HERE.

CAMERA SUGGESTIONS?

2011-09-08T14:07:00.000-07:00

I've asked this before but now I'm serious - I need a new camera soon! If you have any suggestions of models I should look at, please let me know. I would like:
Under $500, not too big, can take good all around photos but I also good for up-close/detail shots.
Any suggestions appreciated...thanks!

PENDELTON - THE PORTLAND COLLECTION

2011-09-07T13:52:00.000-07:00

I've had my eye on Pendelton's Portland Collection over the last year as it has quietly gained momentum for its retail debut this week. Inspired much by the success of the Pendelton x Opening Ceremony collection, Pendelton has launched its own in-house fashion line, designed and produced in the Portland area. As an avid lover of all things Pendelton, I can't wait to see the collection in person, especially the coats, some of which were based off styles pulled from the company archives dating from the 1920's and 30's. It's so cool to see a company over 100 years old continuously breathing new life into its product. My favorite styles below:I always visit the Pendelton Mill store when I'm in Portland and I've nearly finished my own Pendelton jacket which I will share next week - I think it's my favorite jacket to date thanks to the amazing fabric I picked up from the mill. You can learn more about The Portland Collection HERE.

And Pendelton - if you ever go for a Pendelton/leather collaboration, CALL ME!

BAD AS ME

2011-09-06T11:35:00.000-07:00

Really loving the title track on the new album from Tom Waits - Bad As Me - check it.

PLANS

2011-09-03T10:45:00.000-07:00

NEW MOON

2011-09-02T10:37:00.000-07:00

I found these photos of shipbuilder and adventurer David Brooks while scanning through images of houseboats. I especially liked his boat the New Moon, which he built and lived on in Sausalito in the mid 60's.
More images HERE.

AT THE SEA

2011-08-30T11:50:00.000-07:00

I like everything about this...
Photos by Robert Farber from VIVA, as seen on Sighs&Whispers, which always has interesting pictures from days past.

VANS x SPITFIRE - VOTE 510!

2011-08-29T10:57:00.000-07:00

The challenge was simple: Get a few skate shops together, give them a little money for supplies, see what they can build to skate, and film it. Watch the video and click the bottom of the page to vote for the 510 video - no question, the best. This is a slice of life in Oakland for all dudes involved. The building was a group effort: barging a spot, working all hours of the day and night, and of course, having some good fun.

Click HERE to vote directly for the video and just hit the "LIKE" button for 510!!! Only 3 days left to vote.

LOVE'S DART

2011-08-25T13:58:00.001-07:00

Did I post this a while back? Listening to this Django Django song again becasue its rad.

JACKET INSPIRATION - GRAPHIC PATTERN & LEATHER

2011-08-24T10:36:00.000-07:00

I've had these jackets by Jun Takahashi for Undercover on my mind ever since I saw them. I love the unexpected mix of classic biker styling and leather with wool fair isle sweaters. Hoping to have my current jacket finished by this weekend, stay tuned for pics.

WATERWAYS

2011-08-22T11:21:00.000-07:00

I love when I can swim in a lake, a river, and an ocean all in the same week.

FISHING WITH MEL

2011-08-20T09:00:00.000-07:00

Our home for a few daysWell, I didn't fish but Mel did and I watched her clean her catch

HMMM...

2011-08-19T13:36:00.000-07:00

PENDELTON WOLLEN MILL STORE

2011-08-19T10:50:00.000-07:00

This is one of my favorite places in Portland and I'm always inspired when I go here. I'm starting on my next jacket which includes an wool piece from the mill, I can hardly wait to get working. Ugg...sorry for the glaring iphone photos but I still wanted to share...

Custom embroidery machines
Stacks and stacks of wool for purchaseOld wooden bobbinsRoles of fabric for days Photos from the Pendelton archiveWool yarnsRainbow colorsThere's even a whole museum section with many custom woven blankets.Check it out if you are there, you won't be able to leave empty handed. Pendelton Woolen Mill Store

GETTING AWAY

2011-08-17T10:53:00.001-07:00

This was a vacation I really did not want to come back from. Leaving a little Thrasher love on my way into Oregon.

JACKET #3

2011-08-06T14:27:00.000-07:00

Kind of a long post here, so just skip ahead of you wanna see the final thing. I love varsity jackets - here's my version. You can see the inspiration HERE. Some quick drawings below. Traditional varsity jackets have snaps down the front but I really wanted to avoid using any metal trims for this jacket since I'm always so metal hardware-happy...love my zippers and buckles. I got some awesome leather buttons at the Pendelton mill in Oregon and I wanted to incorporate them for this style.
Pattern drafting.
It's a very simple cut but there still ends up being a lot of pattern pieces.I sewed a canvas mock-up to make sure it fit right.
I wanted to try something different - I had my heart set on leather button holes. I hate reading directions and following patterns which is really dumb of me, but I usually just mess around with something until I figure it out on my own. You learn a lot from trial and error. These button holes were a REAL BITCH. Still not 100% happy with the final outcome but I guess they look okay if you don't know anything about sewing, so don't look too close. Here's some practice versions.Self-portrait, with scissors. Those are my great, great grandmother's dressmaker's shears. Sewing it all up. I really wanted to use an old army blanket for the body but couldn't find one that was the right weight, so I bought some wool yardage. Everything else is black leather (sleeves, pockets, neck and waist ribbing, buttons, button holes).Mr. McFiddles, always underfoot even though there's no food here.Making neck ribbing using leather and elastic. Totally not sure how this was going to turn out (ribbing is usually knit) but I crossed my fingers. I like it - but next time I'd increase the gathering ratio a little bit.
About to sew the neck ribbing on. I use binder clips to hold my leather pieces together because pins bend and leave holes on the leather surface.I really wanted to do a quilted lining...but not just boring old grid quilting. I made a zig-zag template on paper and pinned it to the batting and lining, following it as a guide while I sewed the layers together. The batting is very thin wool, so it's not bulky but still keeps you warm.Finished jacket. But I still gotta put a button hole at the very bottom!See the zig zag lining? I'm very happy how it turned out. Grids are for squares!Leather covered shank buttons, how I love you. I bet they've been making this same kind of button for 200 years. Guaranteed your grandpa has at least one jacket with those buttons on it.Fits like a glove, I'm going to wear it all the time.

MY ZONE

2011-08-05T11:42:00.000-07:00

This is where all the magic happens. And a bunch of cussing. Someday, I will have a big, spacious studio but in the meantime, I couldn't ask for a better workspace.

MR. PATCHWORK

2011-08-04T12:47:00.000-07:00

The quilter in me loves this guys technique and dedication. Those button holes! I'm obsessed with button holes right now.From JAK & JIL

LOGO BAG, I LOVE MY ARBOR PRESS

2011-08-04T11:45:00.000-07:00

Lagging on posting my jacket even though it's finished. In the meantime, I made this quick replacement for THIS BAG (same pattern) since I spilled gross stuff inside of it. I used the messed-up scarred part of an an undyed hide since it's just for me and I like the imperfections.
2 pieces, super easy.My awesome arbor press, used to push an embossing plate into the leather surface.Sew it inside out, turn it.Done, so quick. I like the flawed surface and it's only going to get better as time goes on.

BOET

2011-07-29T15:18:00.000-07:00

New favorite jewelry line...BOET. Emily Bixler creates necklaces and earrings from hand crochet silk and cotton threads, chain, and antique findings.
And I'm the proud owner of these earring now...Love.
If you are in Portland this weekend, check out the BIG THINGS lemonade stand - sure to be a great sale and party. And you can find BOET jewelry here!

JACKET#3 INSPIRATION

2011-07-26T13:53:00.001-07:00

I finished my newest jacket this weekend and will post photos in the next week. I'm pretty happy with the result, even though I totally goofed a bunch along the way. Here's some inspirational images I used for direction.

Oh, Amy Winehouse...so sad she had to join the other 27s. But she did design a pretty cool jacket with Fred Perry that I really like a lot. So simple and neat.Love this vintage jacket. Boxy cut, contrast materials. Also like the neutral colors.
Letterman/varsity styling. Love the wool body with contrast leather sleeves.
Army green & black. It's a sharp combo.
Stay tuned...

ZIPPER BANGLE

2011-07-22T10:15:00.000-07:00

This bracelet is pretty cool especially if you really love zippers like I do. Buy it HERE.

FAIR FLARE

2011-07-19T11:15:00.000-07:00

Ruckus modeling my hat from the Alameda County fair. I never know what to get written on these things. My name? Someone else's name? Something meaningful or funny? I just went with my first thought.

PIZZA CLOTHES

2011-07-15T10:25:00.000-07:00

Kinda gross but I'm also weirdly drawn to it. Happy Friday!
From HERE.

RAINBOW

2011-07-14T12:29:00.000-07:00

Love this photo from one of my favorite blogs, Sighs & Whispers. Photo by Barry Lategan for Vogue UK, April 1971.

MORE SHIRTS

2011-07-14T11:47:00.001-07:00

I'm going to make some shirts to sell since there seems to be some interest in them...email me or commment if there is a certain fabric print you are interested in (unfortunately I can't get any more of the space print as they were old pillowcases). Below styles are the others I made last weekend. I love the iphone over-saturated colorway, but see below for slightly better photos with more realistic color representation. I'll post when shirts are in the store!

Tea-dyed rose batik cotton print in black and orange:
Natural cotton lawn with hand dyed black pattern (same fabric from the shirt I made HERE a while back).Thanks for your interest!

SUMMER TRIO

2011-07-12T13:57:00.000-07:00

Three of a kind:

GALAXY PILLOW CASE SHIRT

2011-07-05T10:19:00.000-07:00

Remember these old pillow cases I have? I decided to make something with them. I love old sheets because they're so soft and I find lots of cool prints at the thrift stores. It was hot as hell this weekend and I needed some summer shirts. Love the galaxy print on this particular set.Fidel, my studio mate, checking out the fabric.Pattern paper scraps, lots of cutting.I made a simple shirt pattern, just 2 pieces with a racer-back.Cutting out the pattern using weights to keep it all flat and stable.Cut out fabric pieces. I had to piece together the front because the paper pattern was wider than the fabric.The front and back sewn together with a rolled hem.Cutting out bias strips from the scraps to finish the arm holes and neckline.Sewing the binding on.Done. Super easy, fast to make, nice for summer heat. Loose fit with a longer back and cropped front. I made 3 versions in different fabrics in an afternoon but this is my favorite.

Lovely Becca modeling the goods.

BEACH DAYS

2011-06-30T11:03:00.000-07:00

OAKLAND MORMON TEMPLE

2011-06-29T13:43:00.001-07:00

It's a cool looking place...

ALL AMERICAN FLAG

2011-06-28T10:57:00.001-07:00

The art in the lobby of my office building is usually pretty lame. It's on some sort of corporate art-rental program where they switch it up every month or two so you don't get too sick of looking at the same shitty thing all the time. I like the current selection for once - especially the below piece by Stuart Wagner, titled "ALL AMERICAN FLAG", made with Coke, Pepsi, Budweiser cans, and wood ($2000). I hope he drank all that beer and soda himself.

RED

2011-06-27T14:25:00.000-07:00

C. Hérouard, La Garçonne at home, 1925. From Sighs and Whispers.

LEATHER KING

2011-06-24T12:56:00.001-07:00

Mitch Alfus starting importing leathers into the US the year I was born and hasn't looked back since. If you have any interest in leather, you have to watch this short film by Todd Selby. AMAZING!

VIRTUALLY HAPPY

2011-06-23T15:41:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite Holly Golightly songs:

MARC IN MARC

2011-06-22T16:09:00.001-07:00

Love these photos by Patrick Demarchelier of Marc Jacobs as seen at Industrie Magazine. Styled by Katie Grand. See the rest HERE.

JUNE ROSEBOWL

2011-06-14T11:06:00.000-07:00

Some things of interest seen at the Rosebowl - I am usually too preoccupied people-watching and shopping to take photos, but here's a few:

Chuckie - I guess he's officially "vintage" now since Child's Play came out in 1988. I like his hair - looks like he got a body wave, it's usually flatter as I remember it.
I'm not really a pancho-wearer but I liked this particular one a lot.The patch guy is one of my favorite vendors, he's got it all.All-over crazy sequin jacket.Cool table top made out of a reclaimed bowling alley.Lips phone - obviously, I love. That other one is rad, too.American flag pants, everyone's so into the red, white & blue right now.Skater dude stuff.Satin jacket by Catherine Malandrino, pretty neat.Weird bird house made out of an old riding boot.RTX sighting, Jennifer Herrema giving an interview and shopping for crazy outfits probably....and drinking a Bud Light - my kind of girl!

LEMON BALL HANDMADE FOOTBALLS

2011-06-10T12:13:00.000-07:00

I learned about Lemon Ball handmade leather baseballs and footballs from fellow bag-maker REID.DAMNIT. This is such a cool shop - I don't know anyone that makes stuff like this! Check out this video to see how they are made.

B & W

2011-06-09T12:00:00.000-07:00

What is this totally weird car? I kind of love it, it reminds me of an Oreo.

HOW TO MAKE A BAG

2011-06-07T15:38:00.000-07:00

I love this video from the Will Leather Goods website on the making of their Tribeca Film Festival bag. This is a "T-Bottom" style tote - about the most simple bag pattern you can make but they've added some nice details. This video is a great overview of small-scale factory made bags - die cutting, sewing, strap making, setting rivets,etc. Check it out:

Will x Tribeca Film Festival from Will Leather Goods on Vimeo.

SPRING

2011-06-07T11:43:00.000-07:00

Bike ride break, beer in the grass, and roses as usual.

LICENSE PLATE WIN

2011-06-06T10:55:00.000-07:00

I first read this as "cock and sew," but "cook and sew" is pretty good, too. Thanks, Beth!

MY LITTLE PRINCESS

2011-06-02T12:09:00.000-07:00

Can't wait to see this movie...

COMMISSION JACKET- KELLUCHI

2011-06-01T15:56:00.000-07:00

My most recent project was a commissioned jacket based off the first jacket pattern I made. This version has longer sleeves, a slightly less tapered fit through the waist, and an awesome irregular-striped pink & black silk lining.

For Kelluchi...she's so sassy she gets a name tag with her handle on it.I'm working on my newest pattern now - hoping to have my first version of that done to show in the next week or so.

CARRY ALL

2011-05-25T10:54:00.001-07:00

I've made so many things over the past few years and only end up showing a small amount. I started this blog mostly as an online portfolio, though it's easy to drift away from that path and jibber-jabber about this-n-that. When I get a new camera, I'll be taking much better and more consistent photos of works in progress. Until then, I'll keep posting my randoms - here's a tote bag.

FUCK YA SPARKLES

2011-05-24T08:08:00.000-07:00

Love these photos of fellow Oaklander Monica Canilao installing her current show "What's Lost is Safe" running through July 31st at the Sky High Gallery in Milwaukee.
All photos by Faythe Levine as seen on My Love For You is a Stampede of Horses. See more photos and read about the project HERE.

OAKLAND'S DUSTY ROSE

2011-05-20T08:22:00.000-07:00

Helmets. If you ride a motorcycle, you probably wish you didn't have to wear one unless you live in one of those few states that doesn't care about you. But maybe if you had a helmet as cool as this one, you'd want to wear it more.

Somewhere between emailing me about the best sundae she ever had, stealing flowers from neighbors' yards, and riding her Triumph, lil' Sara makes some damn cool stuff. Take this beauty she fixed up to keep her coconut intact as she's flying down the highway. One part Laura Ashley, one part dirty swap meet, it represents just the kind of contrast I love - something unexpected, a mix of styles that do not usually intermingle. Wallpaper-esque roses adorn a helmet that was neon orange in a previous life. Who's got a helmet with vintage roses? It's pretty but a little rough-around-the-edges, making it the perfect topper for a sassy lady rider.

It was one of those nice spring days out, the kind where you want to hang out in the street and drink cocktails in front of a limo. Or put some lacy clothes on over your grungy stuff and skate around a bit.
Stretched 1980 Cadillac Fleetwood Limousine hood dingleberry, courtesy of Sara's neighbor Maurice. "This is your best shot" pro group pose, thanks to Tyra.

COOL BAG

2011-05-18T10:05:00.000-07:00

Interesting bag as seen on Park&Cube.

MEXICAN POINTY BOOTS

2011-05-17T11:07:00.000-07:00

I can't even begin to describe this, just watch it. Amazing styles!

BABY BIRDS

2011-05-16T14:04:00.001-07:00

I've watched these Oregon Juncos nesting for the past few months. First the mom flew back and forth building the nest and then started spending a lot of time sitting in there. One day I looked in and there was a little pile of feathers with a heartbeat. The chicks started getting big and I knew they were going to fly soon. One day, they just left. There was one sad egg at the bottom of the nest that didn't get enough heat and never made it to term. I left the nest for a long time, hoping a bird would come back to use it again. I can see my own red hair woven into the nest as well as that from the long-haired white cat that frequents our yard. When it started raining, I figured it was time to take it and add it to the collection I've had since I was little.

BEST PIN EVER

2011-05-13T10:31:00.001-07:00

PEEK-A-BOO MOTO JACKET

2011-05-11T12:23:00.000-07:00

Clear PVC motorcycle jacket from Comme Des Garçons Spring/Summer 2011 at Colette.